Where can I buy Koroseal tank lining material?

A. I don't think you're going to find such a coating, Larry, and think that a do-able approach might be to find a lining service who is able to visit you to strip and Koroseal re-line in situ. Good luck.

A. Larry,

I'm sorry to say but I think that you are being led up the proverbial garden path. A coating is a coating is a coating, ie. it's an ultra thin membrane which, even were it made from pure TFE and IF tfe could be 'painted' on and IF it would stick/glue perfectly it would FAIL because sooner (probably) or later (less probable) it is going to get scratched and being an ultra thin coating you are now back at base one to the apparently damaged Koroseal lining.

You have two options, re-Koroseal or, if the tank is relatively small, consider please a dual laminate construction. A dual laminate in this case would consist of min. 1/4" thick uPVC which has an outer reinforcement bonded to it of fibreglass. You will appreciate that any flexible liner is never, ever as chemically resistant as the pure material. I'd go a step further and demand that you either use a Trovidur or a Simona uPVC material, that all corners are bent (which means, too, forming the 4 bottom 3-part edge corners) and, of course, to have the final unit spark tested for weld integrity. Obviously this work has to be done by a copasetic dual laminate fabricator, an ordinary fiberglass fabricator even if given a well made all-PVC tank could, in my experience, cause it to fail! Finally, as with a good Koroseal type liner, I'd want to see a 'plate' overlay over the air/liquid interface to prevent oxidization at this juncture. Yes, this has been done before ... even as far back as l969 on 15 foot dia. chlorate cell tanks for Hooker Chemical in Mississippi although now the bonding methods are vastly simplified. ... a Canadian world's first, by the way!

Cheers!

A. We own a hard chrome plating job shop in the eastern part of Holland, and we were having the same problems with our Koroseal linings. Two years ago, we were looking for an alternative and we came to a FRP lining which was specially designed to hold up against the very aggressive chromium chemicals. The lining we use is called "Fiberliner". We are very pleased with it. Up to now we don't see any corrosion for example at the line where the fluid and oxygen meet. It's also a very strong coating and it can be repaired without losing its quality.

Good luck.

A. Hi again, Re Tim Jarsma's FIBERLINER and his success ... ah, that's only over a very short time period and the KOROSEAL lining people (always a competitor of mine!) would, I'm sure, say that in normal circumstances their linings last 5 or so years. Hence a 2 year life span doesn't mean very much, does it? Further, I'm very sure that if someone (and I KNOW IT HAS BEEN DONE!) were to properly line a steel tank using a very good vinylester or polyester resin (Atlac, Derakane or Hetron), I'm sure that that lining would ALSO last 2 years, too, ... but not as long as Koroseal. Like everything else, it depends, too, on the quality of the fabrication work. Further, when it comes to very severe corrosion, fiberglass per se is NOT used! They do not have a homogenous structure like thermoplastics. But they are better in heat deflection than many thermoplastics and definitely much stronger than any thermoplastic and have a much lower coefficient of expansion ... the ideal, where practical, is the synergistic marriage of the two to form a so-called armored or dual laminate plastic.

Cheers!

A. Hi, John. Koroseal is a product of B.F. Goodrich.

Regards,

A. Koroseal has a competitor called Ameron. They make the same products. They are in Brea, CA. I have been making tanks for the plating and circuit board industry since 1979. I've tried Fiberglas including the supposed acid resistant polymers. I tried the sprayed on Poly Urethane. I've used Fabricated ridged sheet CPVC and PVC. I've tried several epoxies and powder coatings even the teflon varieties. The best working is the Koroseal/ Amerplate liners. The CPVC and the PVC ridged tanks work very well but the cost is very high because to make them strong enough to be self supporting the material has to 1/2" or thicker and then either steel backed, steel reinforced or some other method of providing structural support.

A. I know this thread is an older one but I just came across it. Koroseal has the longest and most outstanding track record of any plasticized PVC. The one drawback to it is the adhesive system. The adhesive requires time consuming and expensive tank preparation like sand blasting. More importantly the adhesive gives out at 145 °F greatly limiting the applications of Koroseal. By eliminating the adhesive the material can be taken up to 200 °F continuous operating temperature. A drop in liner eliminates the need for special skills or personnel to install as well. The liner simply arrives at your shop ready for installation. The liner is made from the exact same Koroseal material traditionally glued to the tank but comes with all the benefits of a drop in custom fabricated tank liner.

A. My only answer to the person who needs an old used Koroseal lined Chrome tank relined is this, I have been doing Koroseal tank lining for over the past 39 years, I have 1st hand knowledge that Koroseal is the way to go. When I do a customer's tank be it either new or a reline, I usually apply 3/16" thick on all side-walls & bottom, plus add a extra protective top skirt, usually 3/32" thick or in some cases 1/8" thick. Keep in mind our supplier does offer Hi-Temp Koroseal too, yes the cement does break down under high temps, but you the end user are supposed to control the heat level -- the tank liner is only as good as the person who applied it and how well the end user takes care of the liner while in use. Usually most Chrome tanks last around 4-5 years depending on how many shifts and misc. work hours go on with the tank. I just got done relining a customer's used Chrome tank which I lined some 6 years ago, so you can debate on either to use a flexible PVC drop-in liner or go back with a glued on Koroseal liner. Me I would go with the new Koroseal liner and make sure the company doing the work installs a top extra protective skirt, it gives your tank another 1-2 years life.