Removing scratches from stainless steel appliances

I just wanted to thank Cary from Toronto for recommending the Revere Copper Cleaner ⇦ this on eBay [affil links] . While it didn't completely remove the scratches/rub marks (yes, I too used the wrong side of the stupid sponge) it helped tremendously. Now you can only see them in certain light which is a huge improvement. One note, the directions say to apply it in a circular motion, obviously you want to apply it with the grain of your finish. With shipping I think it cost around $7, so it's a much cheaper alternative to some of the other products out there. Hope this helps.

A. If you have an "etched" water/liquid drip down your stainless appliance or on your sink, try this solution:

1. On a wet paper towel or cloth, place a large amount of baking soda [in bulk on eBay or Amazon [affil links] . Gently yet steadily rub baking soda over drip going WITH the grain. Once entire drip is repeatedly covered, continue rubbing baking soda over entire panel or appliance. This creates uniformity throughout the metal.

2. Use Windex Multi-Surface spray or similar to remove excess baking soda and provide a clean surface (might I suggest not using regular Windex as a substitute). If drip "etch" is still visible, repeat steps 1 and 2 until unnoticeable.

3. Use Magic Stainless Steel [affil links] (usually comes with stainless appliances) or equivalent polish to seal and finish the job. Be sure to thoroughly buff off the polish when it first dries so you do not leave streaks.

4. Step back and enjoy your dripless appliance.

This process has worked for me on both a Bosch dishwasher and Frigidaire refrigerator. The refrigerator gets especially bad drip marks because of the in-the-door water system. When I get sick of looking at them, I do this.

I use the exact products mentioned so alternative products may not lead to the same results. Also, this does not work very well on removing scratches so I would not recommend spending the time on this for that reason.

So I hope this helps at least SOME people here! Happy scrubbing!

adv.
Hi Susan and Janice, if you'll let me I'd like to tout the laurels of our Scratch-B-Gone kit. Janice, you've lived with those scratches much too long and if you want to remove all of the scratches Susan then the answer is Scratch-B-Gone. Please don't just take my word for it but read more about what others are saying and actual pictures at our website (link above). Scratch-B-Gone is the only recommended product for complete refinishing and scratch removal of all 'real' Stainless steel appliances, sinks and grills. Sheila Shine is a very good product but one thing most tend to do is leave a layer of film behind and it tends to get oily. If you use this, be sure to wipe it all off for better results and handling. The makers of Sheila Shine also recommend this. Best to both of you.

adv.
Hi Barb, as you stated Scratch Away specifically states for use on sinks only. This is due to the prolonged and tedious process of cycling through the many abrasive pads to get scratches out. The manufacturer actually will tell you not to use their product on appliances other than sinks. This is because you will have to do the whole surface to get the remain to match in color and texture. Assuming your dishwasher is 'real' stainless and doesn't have a clear coat film, Scratch-B-Gone will help you repair this problem. Hope this helps. All the best.

A. Hi Kathy and Emily, sorry to read of your dilemmas.

adv.
Have you read the blogs discussing our Scratch-B-Gone product?

Let me address each of your problems and possible solutions. Emily, you write that the appliance is non-magnetic yet you call it 'faux' finish. In fact, 'real' 304 Stainless steel is Non-magnetic; where as, those refers which hold magnets are actually steel frames with a protective finish or synthetic skin wrap. Why do you say it is not real? Was it sold as 'finger print or smudge-free'? If so then it may have a clear coat, protective finish. And for you Kathy, GE Profile is usually 'real' Stainless steel unless it is sold as "Clean Steel", their name for a coated finish. Is this the case? I suspect you both have 'real' Stainless but have used poor repair solutions which have 'burnished' the surface repair and created typical bright spots. If this is true them our Scratch-B-Gone will fix these problems. Since I get a lot of inquiries about "How Do I Know If I Have A Coated or Imitation Finish", we have put together a pretty thorough review of manufacturers with coatings and quick tests you can do to determine if your appliance has a coating. You can find this on our website. From our home page you will be directed to a test page. Please feel free to contact me to discuss when in doubt. While there also look at our many safe cleaning products for Stainless and whole kitchen. All the best!

adv.
Happy Easter Phil. Thanks for asking specifically about Scratch-B-Gone. Yes, Scratch-B-Gone will work very quickly to fix these scratches. Scratch-B-Gone re-scratches the original grain and returns a new finish to the damaged surface. No you won't have to do the entire surface as our proprietary formula, Ultra Shine, quickly oxidizes the locally refinished surface to match surrounding surfaces. Our process allows you to locally restore a scratch with remarkable results..Have a nice Easter.

Hi Jerry, the Scratch-B-Gone process is designed to successfully remove light scuff scratches from Stainless while chemically blending the repaired areas to closely match surrounding surface tone. We have had hundreds of success ourselves and hear successes of those who have used Scratch-B-Gone on problems like yours. Thanks for specifically asking about Scratch-B-Gone.

It is now the only manufacturer recognized restoration products for Stainless appliances, sinks and grills. All the best

JA. Just yesterday I scratched my Frigidaire refrigerator with one of those "hard surface" kitchen sponges. I wasn't thinking. I think my surface is faux like one of the previous posters.

After panicking I decided to use the Zep Stainless Steel Cleaner we had on hand and IT WORKED! I'd be lying if I said you couldn't see the scratches at all anymore, but it made a HUGE difference. I can't see the swirls unless I'm really looking.

If you can't find it I would guesstimate it works similarly to WD-40 ⇦ this on eBay or Amazon [affil links] which I saw referenced on the forum a few times. Both are oil based so I would recommend starting there if you have a fridge similar to mine. Good luck!

A. Some years ago I had a dog do a number on my stainless range. He chewed the corners of the drawer and the door. Talk about a death wish, but lucky for my furry friend I love him and what the heck he didn't get what he did? I had nothing to lose the stove looked like I dragged it from the trash. I took wet - dry sandpaper the black paper, wet it and started sanding. The teeth marks in some spots were deep, I could not believe it but I saved my stove. I them buffed it with fine steal wool used for furniture polishing. If your marks are deep you might want to try this. My stove lives on and is almost back to new.

adv.
This answer is for both Sharon and Carolyn. Scratch-B-Gone will work safely to remove those nagging water streaks from the calcium off of your doors. We also have a new product at our site called XHS or Xtreme Hardwater remover which we are soon to launch which is very effective in removing hard water mineral deposit while being safe to Stainless. As to your question Carolyn, Kitchenaid products are good candidates for Scratch-B-Gone as is GE Profile. Again, don't use Scratch-B-Gone on any appliances sold as 'CLEAN STEEL' from GE; 'SATINA' from Whirlpool/Kitchenaid. Check the model # and look for an "SS" as the last letters in their sequence. This stands for Stainless steel. Their Architectural Series has a Monochromatic Stainless but this is not the same. When all else fails look to our website for a downloadable Quick Test guide for determining if Scratch-B-Gone will work on your surface. Thanks and best of luck.

A. I just wanted to let everyone know that Scratch-B-Gone does work. After much investigation, after my refrigerator was scratch by a housekeeper with steel wool, I decided to try it. It took 10 minutes to do and looks like brand new. I am impressed with this product. It's worth the money. Its very easy to do also, you just need a little elbow grease! I am not in any way affiliated with this company or product.

A. Hi Nicole..thanks for considering and mentioning Scratch-B-Gone for your repairs. Since you've done a good job at researching this issue, I will ask you to do one more test. Find some metal polish under your sink (i.e., silver, brass polish). Put small drop on towel and rub in corner of door in direction of grain. If uncoated then will turn black on cloth. If this happens then Scratch-B-Gone will work for you. Magnetic quality of metal indicates that we're working with 430SS not 304SS and it is probably coated to reduce printing and reduce rust potential. All the best...please post your results. I'll be reading.

A. As a follow up to all of the posts concerning scratches in stainless steel appliances, I too, managed to scratch my fridge with an abrasive type cleaner. After reading the posts, I tried to double check with an appliance store, Sears, Home Depot, Best Buy, to see if they had an recommendations. Big waste of time... Long story short, I bought a 150 grit sanding sponge from Home Depot and went with the grain of the stainless steel and completely took the scratches out. Polished it up and the fridge looks like new again.

A. Spots and fingerprints on Stainless Kitchenaid fridge remedy:
I bought a floor model and used the cream that came with the Fridge but it looked worse. I have used the Cream from my Charmglow Commercial Stainless BBQ and it worked like a charm. I cannot find where to purchase it though as it only comes with the BBQ. If you can get some of this, you fridge will look great... I don't know about scratches though. Good Luck!

A. I recently built a home and bought a brand new (and my very first!) stainless steel, side-by-side fridge (GE). About one week after receiving it, I opened the door and it accidentally hit a nearby wooden bar stool and it made an awful lengthwise zig-zag scratch (think Charlie's Brown's shirt!). Needless to say, I was absolutely devastated and searched for hours on the internet for a solution. Thank goodness, I found this site and heard about Scratch-B-Gone. I was skeptical, since I read some reviews here that said it just made the scratches worse, but I knew I couldn't live with the scratch so I decided to try my luck and bought the .75 ounce bottle. When I received it, I used the finest grit pad that came with the kit (the grey, unwoven one) and applied the solution. I worked the pad VERY gently up and down with the grain and to my absolute shock, the scratch was becoming lighter by the second! Within about 5 minutes of careful working, I had completely buffed out the scratch. When I stepped back, however, I could still see a very slight "dullness" across the area where I had buffed (it was really no big deal, but I'm a perfectionist and wanted it to look EXACTLY as it did the day I got it a week before). I just applied a bit more solution to the pad and worked up and down about 6 inches above and below the scratch to camouflage it and within a few strokes, it worked like a charm! There is absolutely NO evidence that a scratch was ever present or that any buffing had been done. It looks like it did the day I got it. Granted, it was definitely not a deep scratch, but I am very pleased with the product and recommend it to anyone with a similar problem. One word of note: the directions say that you should apply some solution to the surface with a rag first and if the rag doesn't turn black, you shouldn't use it. This is not always the case. I applied the solution with a rag and it did NOT turn black or change colors at all. I was very disappointed since I really wanted to use it. I called the manufacturer and they confirmed that it was indeed real stainless steel and that it did not have a protective coating, so I used it and am very happy I did!

A. I've looked through a lot of this thread with no real answer, so I finally decided to "bite the bullet" and just do it the way I thought might work . . . and I was right (for a change).

Some thoughtful person, following a party at our home decided to clean our expensive stainless steel DCS stove and oven with a Scotch Brite pad. Needless to say, Scotch Brite IS NOT a good way to clean anything stainless steel! Fortunately our good Samaritan realized very quickly that it was a really bad idea. Unfortunately, the stainless was marked right in front of the burners. My first thought was automotive rubbing compound ⇦ this on eBay or Amazon [affil links] or polishing compound, and I tried it, realizing it was going to take hours to remove the scratches, and I was going to end up with a shiny spot on the stove.

I checked this thread and really didn't get any help, but a whole lot of confusion. (Here's the "bite the bullet part). I have some wet and dry auto paint sandpaper in a variety of grits, so I used wet (Yes, you put water on it) 400 grit waterproof sandpaper and a good quality sanding block to try to rub out the scratches. I realized in about two minutes that I was on the right track, since the scratches were gone, however the stainless was a bit too shiny, so I hit the area with 320 grit on the sanding block. It turned out great, although still just a bit smoother finish than the original, but my fiance loves it, so I didn't drop down to the 280 grit, which would probably be the right one.

Long story short: Get a good quality automotive paint sanding block and a variety of waterproof automotive paint sandpapers, then start with about 400 grit and move down until you have the one that matches your finish. You might not have to use the sanding block on a surface that isn't flat, but I'd recommend it strongly on any flat surfaces.

Once I started rubbing out the spot using this technique, it really did only take about two minutes. The second shot with the 320 grit took a whole 30 seconds and the stove looks like new (which it is)!

It's cheap, easy and quick and you don't have to search for any magic potions!

Congratulations, you found the right answer!

A. Hi Ron. The mirror or bright polish you speak of is created by high speed buffing process with compounds. As a service company we have done this hundreds of times. This is quite simple to resolve but you will need to purchase a few things.

adv.: Contact us to discuss the process. For your brushed grained finish of your tub and basin, Scratch-B-Gone is the proven solution for all leading manufacturers of sinks, appliances and grills. All the best

adv.
Cissy, Scratch-B-Gone is your ONLY answer to fix this problem. All the best...

A. Someone asked about removing the adhesive from all the stickers the manufacturers put on the appliances. I have a GE Cafe Fridge and got the adhesive off with Goo Gone ⇦ this on eBay or Amazon [affil links] (one of my most favorite products anyway), the spritzed it with Fantastic to remove the grease. Using a soft cloth towel. No paper towel. It worked just fine.

Looked good until my cabinet installer used the fridge to help stand up and left hand marks all over it. My first venture into stainless appliances and I am holding my breath. Such tender care required of a laid back housekeeper like myself.

A. Scratch B Gone takes the finish off of your appliance...do not use. I wish I had my fine scratches back, now I have a huge dull cloud that stands out like a sore thumb. We used the finest grain paper for brushed stainless steel and followed the directions precisely. You are better off just calling your manufacturer.

A. I used baking soda w/ water to clean my rust, water spots, & drops off my stainless steel ref. Followed by WD-40 ⇦ this on eBay or Amazon [affil links] to add the shine. It worked excellent. I want to think everybody who suggested this. I didn't cost me a thing because everything was already at my house.

Hi, Lily. Sorry for your troubles! I agree with you that stainless steel / pseudo stainless steel / imitation stainless steel is absolutely not a robust finish. My appliances are painted and I am very glad they are.

Still, while you have been unsuccessful with your particular scratches on your particular appliances, using your techniques (and a number of other people on this thread have reported the same lack of success) -- that doesn't mean that no one has ever been successful and that the many people who reported success are all lying to deceive you and make you waste your time. Rather, it means that the approach they suggest offered them sufficient improvement with their particular scratches on their particular appliances that they have generously shared what they learned.

Therefore, "Thank you all for spending your time unsuccessfully trying to help me" would have been a more appropriate response to their attempt to help you than "This is all crap". :-)

Have a better day tomorrow. Regards,

A. I used the scotch brite method with the 409 and it left a blotch on my fridge like Matt had on his post. It clearly changed the color or took off some varnish on the LG fridge and now I had two colors going. However, it did take out the scratches very well. Then I took soap and warm water to the "entire" fridge and it must have removed the coating all over because it looks 100 times better than before we had the scratches. We purchased this fridge with scratches for a discount and now we are very happy. Matt try soap and warm water and then dry with a microfiber cloth and see if that helps you out.

Jim

A. I too am a big fan of Goo Gone ⇦ this on eBay or Amazon [affil links] and similar products for removing stickers and labels, etc. and the messy residue they leave behind. I've had a lot of success with a product called Quickie brand Professional Gunk & Goo remover. I think I got it at Home Depot. It comes with a plastic scraper that fits right over the small bottle. You dispense the product right on to the scraper as you use it, and the gunk comes right off.

A. I purchased a GE Cafe stainless steal refrigerator for a discount price due to its scratches. After some research, I tried Scratch B Gone on a stainless steel trash can first (it looked about the same type of finish/grain). I then moved on to the fridge, and although it looks much better than before, it's not perfect. I was still satisfied at that point. However, it appeared it also removed a thin layer of the surface along with removing the scratches, which brings out a slightly different color. I then used Revere Copper and Stainless Steel Cleaner, and the refrigerator now looks great! I guess the combination works nicely. Research, practice, and apply.

A. OK, I used a scotch pad on my Jenn Air Dishwasher scratches up and down, the grain left to right. Read all the posts went to buy scratch b gone, but $50 is a bit high, tried "scratch away" 9.99 home depot, its basically different sandpapers and some gunk that's supposed to "Magically" remove scratches. Scratches are still there, but now I am the only one that knows it, which I consider fixed (basically it worked). I love the WD-40 ⇦ this on eBay or Amazon [affil links] idea, if I were to do it over, I would get 600 bit maybe 800 and maybe 400 grit sandpaper, wet the paper, rub out scratches and use the WD-40 to polish and wrap things up, this will take you from looking like crap to barely noticeable, they are scratches they need to be sanded out. (but the sanding does leave some minor marks as well) I am using WD-40 on all stainless appliances now.... the answer is do the best you can , it will never be factory new again ... not noticeable to the average joe is as good as it might get..

A. Our house sitter used the scrubby side of the kitchen sponge on our ENTIRE fridge / freezer doors. My wife was in tears, not what you want when you get back from vacation. There were swirly scratches over the entire thing and a spot where he scrubbed really hard (across the grain, of course).

Any way, I bought the Scratch B Gone kit and gave it a go. It did take a bit of work to get a good working method for me, but the swirly scratches are gone. However, I had to do the entire thing, and it is difficult to keep the new brushed finish you are creating as straight as the old finish. It still looks much better than the swirly marks though. It would look better after I buff it out more with the finer scrubber from the SBG kit.

Which brings me to my one complaint about the SBG kit. The tiny bottle of "ultra shine" didn't last that long and I still had to clean the surface with WD-40 ⇦ this on eBay or Amazon [affil links] afterwards. I looked on line to see about buying more of the Ultra Shine, and was disappointed to see that it costs $30 for a tiny 2-oz bottle, and even crazier, it costs another $10 to ship that tiny bottle via UPS ground.

There must be some other liquid I can use to finish off my fridge. Water? Water with a little dish soap? Maybe the WD-40? I'll try a few things before paying the $40 for the little bottle.

ADV.
Alicia, Sinks take a beating AND YES there is a perfect and easy solution. Scratch-B-Gone is perfect for sinks. In fact, if you look on our website you'll find many pictures, including my 26 yr old sink, of before and after pictures. My sink took 25 minutes to bring about a brand new finish. And by the way Paul, Sorry you're settling for "I can still see the scratches" results. Next time try Scratch-B-Gone for "I can't see the scratches anymore" results.

adv.
David, good find but if you want to get the 'real' scratches out you can do it quickly and thoroughly with Scratch-B-Gone. Scratch-B-Gone is now the most recommended surface repair kit for scratches, stains, rust, chemical and heat scorch and scuffs from all manufacturers of Stainless appliances, sinks and grills. When you're tired of settling and looking at the scratches, GET Scratch-B-Gone.

Hi Chuck, this is a very common issue with those 'green scrub pads being used improperly. Hundreds of satisfied customers have used our Scratch-B-Gone product to resolve and fix this type of problem on sinks and all, non-coated major appliances. Tell you maid service about our product too as they can use it in the future to resolve similar issues elsewhere. Good luck

A. We are/were planning to buy a stainless fridge, but after reading this blog I'm nervous about the challenges many of you have with scratches, etc. But! to those of you who are having water spots, fingerprints, stains, or grease problems there is a product called Twinkle stainless steel cleaner and polish [affil links] spray that does an absolutely beautiful job bringing your stainless back to it's original shine.

A. Hi, sorry your having such a problem with your GE unit but what you describe is too common. Scratch-B-Gone will quickly fix this problem. Since you are getting discoloration, the surfaces are not coated and will respond well. Try to wipe water away quickly after each use. Best

A. To Patricia who had her appliances scratched by granite installer.

Hello, Patricia. I have a similar problem with light scratches on our brand new fridge (do not use magnets on a stainless steel fridge, everyone) and that's how I found your note. Your note really got my attention. If your installer is a reputable company and not your brother's cousin twice removed...or similar family member...you have every right to DEMAND that they repair or replace the damaged fridge. If they are a reputable company, they have insurance for mishaps such as this. Of course, they don't want to be bothered and there may be some expense, and it is much easier for them to just say "no", but YOU deserve to be made whole. It may have been an accident but since you didn't do it, someone IS LIABLE! They are just hoping that you will go away and may even have had a good laugh at your expense over the water cooler...but call them, explain what happened, be polite but appropriately expectant, and tell them you would appreciate the item being repaired/replaced before you have to file a letter with the BBB, Chamber of Commerce, the store that you bought your granite through (Home Depot maybe...or other reliable source) and the POPE if necessary. These companies EXPECT you to back down. On MANY occasions I had to "fight"...diplomatically...shouting and yelling does no good...puts them more on the defensive and you will be the butt of MORE jokes at the water cooler. Home Depot, for example who I think highly of, made it right when the counter top installer they sent mis-measured everything(!), forgot the backsplash, and cut one sink on the wrong side of the new countertop...all this causing 2 weeks of delays with NO countertops as I took off the old ones myself. I "bitched" and Home depot got on the company (Silestone), They replaced everything and H.D. sent me a $400 store credit for my trouble. Believe me, your granite company knows that good news impacts few, but BAD news loses many customers. Call them, politely explain the problem and your expectations. If the lack of response continues, start the letter writing and calling.

I LOVE stuff like this and I VERY RARELY lose. I am polite, professional...but I stick to my guns...even if it involves multiple calls, letters...including certified mail if necessary with c/c to anyone important you can think of. At some point for me, the actual issue loses its significance a bit and it becomes the challenge to make it right that gains my priority attention. If you're wimpy about doing this...ask your husband...or sad to say...another Man in the family to intervene on your behalf. As it stands now...you are being screwed over, you know it, the company knows it. Give them the opportunity to do the right thing. If not, turn the fan on high speed because it SHOULD hit it BIG TIME when you come out of your shell. Best of luck and I would be very interested to hear how you make out.

A. Hi :)

I own a kitchen appliance store. For years I have been fortunate to have had very minimum dings/scratches on our stainless steel appliances on our showroom floor, and when we deliver them. However, it has always been a fear for if some scratches did happen, especially on our stainless steel products.

Two weeks ago I bought Barry's system (Scratch-B-Gone) and I am having great results with it through several practice sessions on scrap stainless steel appliances that we scratched up to practice on. I wanted to have it and already know how to use it should a repair be needed (in our store or at a customers house). ...and if results keep staying consistent, we are considering adding for the public, a stainless steel repair service through our store, or either selling his kits at a retail level to our customers.

WORDS OF ADVICE TO EVERYONE HERE...

Go to a repair shop, appliance store, junkyard etc., and get a door off a scrap appliance AND PRACTICE ON IT FIRST before you use ANY suggestions on this site.

You first have to have the right materials and tools, then you need to do a few practice runs and perfect your skills (trial and error?) on something that does not matter if you mess it up or get lucky and make it look better.

There is a great peace of mind when learning on scrap stainless as opposed to a sometimes "one shot chance" at your prized appliance in case you chose the wrong materials, tools, chemicals, pads, sandpaper etc., or failed to read, or misunderstood the instructions/tips.

---

October 2010

Thanks for a great posting, Vic, that makes real sense.

Regards,

Ted Mooney, P.E.
Striving to live Aloha
finishing.com - Pine Beach, New Jersey

A. Well, I had some hairline scratches on my brand new Kitchen Aid cooktop. Bought scratch-be-gone and proceeded to scratch up my cooktop. Basically, as another poster wrote, this product is way too abrasive. Maybe for a grill or scratched up sink it's fine. But for an expensive Kitchenaid it doesn't work. It dulled the finish on the area I worked on. Watched their video and used the gray pad too. It took out the scratch and dulled the sheen. I had to do the same to the entire front of the cooktop to even out the finish so it would look uniform. I was much better off with the micro scratches.

---

Hello Andrew. As the inventor and practitioner of Scratch-B-Gone, I take reviews like yours very seriously. I am sorry that you appear to have had difficulty with our kit, but as I have pointed out in many previous postings, SBG is not only recommended by but sold by and/or used in the factories by ALL of the leading manufacturers of high end expensive appliances including GE, Whirlpool which makes Kitchenaid and Maytag, Subzero, Wolf, Bosch, Electrolux, Thermador, Viking, Bertazzoni, Dacor. Scratch-B-Gone has and will continue to prove it's value and worth BUT we can't be responsible for how it is used. We are proud to report that we have helped many many folks in similar situations who have reported excellent and 'beyond expectations' results. Hope you'll give us another try.

Barry Feinman
BarrysRestoreItAll

Carlsbad, California

October 28, 2010

Thank you for your question. Yes, a satin finish just means that it has a grained finish. The only time Scratch-B-Gone would not be safe is on 'coated' or 'imitation-look' finishes.

MAAS metal polish

on eBay or

Amazon

(affil links)

A. I used Maas metal polish for all metals ⇨
-- rubbed the creme into the scratched area with a circular motion, -let it dry; buffed with a soft cloth. It took four applications and patience. Followed up with the stainless steel cleaner provided by the manufacturer wiping with the long grain-and all the scratches made while installing the side by side Kenmore Elite were removed. My refrigerator door gleams. Reading the postings of what worked for others prompted me to use the Maas which I had on hand for brass and copper polishing. Thank you for your help.

A. Hi Olivia.

It's a long thread, which takes a lot of patience to read; but please read it or search it for the word "Revere". 3 people have recommended it, and one person has dis-recommended it. That may have a lot to do with the type of stainless steel in the appliance, or the type of fake stainless steel paint on the appliance -- so please identify your stove and, if you happen to know it, what the actual material is. Thanks!

Regards,

Ed. update: We don't think Revere polish is available anymore. Let us know if you find otherwise.

A. Creams alone will not remove 'scratches' from Stainless steel but rather the micro abrasive contained within can remove surface transfer or scuff which can appear to most as a scratch. Scratch-B-Gone is the most recommended single product by most all leading manufacturers for scratch, rust and stain removal because of its simple and effective way of removing scratches from their appliances. Gives us a call and let us help answer your concerns

A. I just tried a solution posted here on my KitchenAide dishwasher. 409 - scotch brite green side and it is amazing. Oh the scratch is still there but barely and I'd have to point it out for anyone else to notice. Thanks.

----
Ed. note -- Readers: Jill repaired her scratches this way, but please note the implication, i.e., that ScotchBrite is more than sufficient to scratch stainless steel. In a few cases that capacity for scratching can be beneficial (to remove larger scratches), but most of the time it would be considered a cause of scratching rather than a cure; so don't use it to clean stainless steel.

A. It's important to realise that some stainless steel has a clear lacquer coating, and the scratches may be on that, rather than on the underlying stainless steel. I have just cleaned some scratches from out fridge, and all it took was a very mild abrasive (I used Silvo ⇦ this on eBay or Amazon [affil links] , a silver cleaner).

So before you try more aggressive abrasives, first try something mild, like maybe Silvo, Brasso, toothpaste, or maybe single-cut car polish

A. I've read through many of the comments on this site... since I too had someone use the rough surface of a sponge (cleaning company that said it wouldn't scratch, but it does leave fine scratches!). This was done on the stove tops and in the sink. After reading the posts, I'm thankful the refrigerator was not cleaned with it at least... but the refrigerator does have fine scratches by the handle from fingernails. So... like most, I googled how to get rid of scratches on stainless steel and found this site. What I find interesting, and discouraging/frustrating, is thinking why would someone happen upon this site after the issue is resolved? Considering this, I wonder how any testimonials can be believable... I don't know, just a thought. If I find something that works I will try to remember to come back and write about it... if I remember this one amongst all the sites I've read looking for advice...

A. I remove scratches from stainless steel for a living and the easiest way I have found to remove scratches is to buy 3m abrasive pads (maroon or brown will do the job), attach them to a block and sand with the grain until they are gone under water. Scratch be gone does have an all in one kit I have used but quick and dirty this is the ticket

A. OK. I never post to these forums. I read exhaustively all 3 pages today. We have a condo which we rent out. The refrigerator is stainless and is about 9 years old. It had numerous swirly scratches below the icemaker on the freezer door. I really hated the look but did not buy a new one with renters and cleaning person coming in.

First I tried Barkeepers Friend ⇦ this on eBay or Amazon [affil links] . Helped a little, but door looked streaky. I then found this stuff at a big box store called Rejuvenate Stainless Scratch Remover. It sounds very much like SBG. It has 2 pads, maroon and gray. I used only the gray pad (finest). I did the entire freezer door. To the untrained eye, you would never know the door had been so scratched. Is it perfect? No. But I would say if a pristine brand new door was a 10/10, I would give this a solid 8-8.5. And I am picky. It looks 100 percent better than before. This stuff for the whole kit was less than $6. I would wholeheartedly recommend it if the only other option is replacing the door panel. PS...door panel would have been almost $800.

A. Hi Stuart. You may be trying to remove a deeper scratch than some other people. Claudia said baking soda "has very very slight grit to it". You can dig a foundation for a skyscraper with nothing but a teaspoon, but it would take most of eternity, and trying to remove a deeper scratch with something with very very slight grit is a similar situation. You'll probably need one of the more abrasive approaches. Good luck.

Regards,

Meguiars Carnauba Paste Wax

on eBay or

Amazon

(affil links)

I use Turtle Carnauba Wax on my stainless steel fridge, stove, microwave . I was told of this by the saleslady at Lowes. It is WONDERFUL, but don't leave it on but a minute or two, and rub off with a paper towel in direction of grain. My problem now, is several scratches made by my grandson, with I don't know what? I will try Scratch b Gone. It is upsetting to have high end appliances and want them to last and look nice. I will use the Scratch b Gone and won't try anything else, but move on and accept it ... which is hard for me to do. We must realize these are just material things and keep things in balance. Kind regards,

A. I have been cleaning houses for 20 years and have been using plain old lemon oil (Old English) on stainless steel appliances to clean them and get a nice finish. I put some on a cloth then buff it on.

A. I will admit I was frustrated to see that most responses in this feed are from a commercial supplier of a scratch removal product. I prefer to see a user recommend a commercial product than its rep; it carries no weight for me that you recommend your own product.

Anyhow, I found this video on youtube very helpful. It is from a range hood company, but they aren't selling you a range hood, just telling you and SHOWING you how you can do it. He is also honest about the amount of effort it takes to refinish. The tips he gives about not scrubbing, etc., are so important, because even if you use some miracle product, if you don't apply it perfectly as he shows, you will end up creating more problems than you solve.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FOmUran35dE

Hope this helps

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June 2014

Hi Aysha. Thanks for the very interesting link! But you complain of ads on this page, while the video you suggest starts with an ad as well. Free services like this page and videos unfortunately can't exist without advertisers.

Be cautious about postings from "satisfied customers". These days computers scan all public forums for key words and then people are paid to post "comment spam". In some cases we've found the URL of the "satisfied customer" to be the same as the URL of the product he recommends, but in most cases it is impossible to tell whether a posting is really from a satisfied user vs. from a shill pretending to be one.

Although postings suggesting methods or generic answers, where no commercial benefit is possible are usually trustworthy, all recommendations of brands and sources are unfortunately suspect :-(

Thanks again, and regards,

Ted Mooney, P.E.
Striving to live Aloha
finishing.com - Pine Beach, New Jersey

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November 9, 2014

I looked at the video and it's obviously not spam, are you suggesting it is?

After reading this long thread it looks like there are three options, the product repeated several times or wet/dry sandpaper or scotchbrite the purple and brown. The product at $49 is too high priced and for something that appears to be done with $5 dollars in material.

If you are suggesting the video was spam and therefore not practical, you either didn't watch it or you're a shill for the $49 dollar product.

If service to this community is the top priority the best options for the poster should show the disparity between a $49 dollar solution and a $5 solution without promoting the higher priced one.

Ray Wert
- houston, texas, usa

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November 2014

Hi Ray. A man hears what he wants to hear and disregards the rest. I don't think I made any of the assertions that you imply that I did, including that the referenced video is spam. Readers can judge for themselves who said what.

You're 100% welcome to post your opinion here that you can fix scratches for $5, so kits are too expensive! There are multiple opinions on everything under the sun. Amazon has 110 reviews of the kit product, and although most are 5 Stars, there's 1 and 2 Star reviews as well.

Be well, but please be charitable and remember that the readers have only been able to see your opinion and your suggestions because:
1. we printed it, we didn't censor it
2. the "kit product" supplier and other advertisers make this free site possible. Although this site is free to look at and post on, it's not free to build and keep on the air :-)

Regards,

Ted Mooney, P.E.
Striving to live Aloha
finishing.com - Pine Beach, New Jersey

This worked perfect. Small block of wood but could be sponge or anything to help wrap sandpaper around, while applying more or less equal pressure across surface. I was afraid if I used my fingers then it would for example have more pressure where my fingers pressed the sandpaper against the stainless.

Used 500 grit sandpaper; sanded in direction of grain. At the end of each stroke lifted up block and then started back down the other way or alternatively just swipe in one direction. If you don't lift at the end of the stroke, when you reverse it might dig in deeper if you don't lift sandpaper. I think if we would have used 320 or 400 would have worked but didn't want to risk it. If deep scratches then might do 320 and then go to 500. This was stupid easy and didn't require much time or effort. When I finished I used vegetable oil on paper towel, because they were close by, but I don't think I really needed to.

A. Do not use paper towels or any soft cloths on any stainless steel surfaces. I only use wipes specifically made to clean SS ... anything else can potentially scratch your SS appliance. The use of paper towels is how my GE stove ended up with scratches in the first place ... I did know that PAPER will scratch stainless steel. Also, my cat runs across the top to get to the window and I noticed his footprints and assume his nails might have scratched the surface as well. Based on the responses at this site I am planning to try the Revere copper cleaner

A. Lemon oil will work wonders when all else fails to cover spots and hide minor scratches. Good luck all!

Ann,
I'm just going to assume because it didn't come off easily that your stain is in fact etching caused by a chemical attack from whatever you spilled on there. The best way that I know of for you to deal with this is something like the Scratch-B-Gone kit from BarrysRestoreItAll (they are in the product directory here at finishing.com).

Paper towels are not likely to severely scratch stainless steel. It might a little bit. I was warned many years ago not to clean the plastic lenses in my eyeglasses with paper towels, but metal is harder than plastic. Be careful with any "Scotchbrite" or similar type pad, though. Only use ones that specifically say scratchless.

I don't know about cat claws, I would not expect that to be an issue since the hardness of keratin is lower than that of metal, but a quick google search turned up this which suggests otherwise:
http://blogs.plos.org/everyone/2013/09/20/the-power-of-the-claw-not-your-average-soft-material/

A. There is a product called OZ cream polish, that my daughter in law suggested. Her father is a sharp tech guy, that really does his research. Anyway, she knew how easy it was to get finger prints and smudges on Stainless Steel. She said with one treatment of this you don't seem to have that problem. I bought the 1 quart size.

Also: I only use Microfibre Cloths. Bought 8 at Walmart in the Auto Section, then bought a pack of Yellow ones, from Costco Automotive area (Near Oil) (20+ for $14.99).

Go with the grain. Use Microfibre. I do have some surface scratches around new stovetop, that even I need to step up to a suggested process above.

Now need to work on how to keep lettering from being removed on stovetop. Or how to buy a marking pen and write neatly.

A. Jeannine,
There's usually two issues that can be at play from chemical damage like that.

One, if you are getting rusting on the affected area, you can clean that up and repassivate with citric acid based passivation products.

Two, any discoloration that isn't corrosion is likely to be etch damage, at which point you will want something like the Scratch-B-Gone [a finishing.com supporting advertiser] kit.

A. Suzy,
The Rejuvenate website lists two products for stainless steel. One is just a cleaner/polish, the other is a "scratch removal kit" which looks to be a collection of different abrasive pads. That should certainly do the trick.

Perhaps the thread would benefit if I try to remove the mysticism here a little bit. Let's try analogy to something more familiar. Think about woodworking. You probably know that a carpenter or wood crafter shapes wood first with rough tools like rasps, files, and planers, and then smooths it by using a series of sandpaper, each with successively smaller grit. You start with the sandpaper with large sand because it more quickly removes the large surface flaws in the wood, but then switch down to the sandpaper with smaller sand because the result is smoother. If you accidentally go back to larger grit after using a smaller grit, now you have made your wood surface rougher rather than smoother.

If somebody puts a big gash in your wooden dining room table, you would have to remove wood from the surface of an amount equal to the depth of the gash, and then re-sand it.

Metal works pretty much exactly the same way. If it's been smoothed with a fine abrasive, a rough abrasive (scouring pad, etc.) will make it rougher. Removing a deep scratch is a matter of repeating the original process and stepping though abrasives from rough to fine.