No passwords, No popups, No AI, No cost:
we earn from your affiliate purchases

Home /
T.O.C.
Fun
FAQs
Good
Books
Ref.
Libr.
Adver-
tise
Help
Wanted
Current
Q&A's
Site 🔍
Search
ted_yosem
Sound technical content, curated with aloha by
Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
Pine Beach, NJ
finishing.com -- The Home Page of the Finishing Industry


  pub
  The authoritative public forum
  for Metal Finishing since 1989

-----

Copper Plating at Home





I would like to copper plate the brass weight shells and pendulum bob of a clock movement. The shells are solid brass (I believe) and pendulum bob I think is brass plate, although I am not sure.I imagine they probably have some sort of lacquer on them for protection. I might also like to plate the chain as well. How can I do this at home?

Larry Freeman
- Zebulon, North Carolina
2001



Similarly, I have brass items I want to copper plate at home.
I need someone to remind me of my basic chemistry for electro-plating. I think I have to use copper sulphate this on eBay or Amazon [affil links] (not sulphate) as electrolyte, but should the donor Copper be the Cathode or Anode?

Chris Vaughan
- London, UK
2007



Hello, Chris. 'Sulphate' and 'sulphate' are the same thing, just optional ways of spelling it. We have an introduction to plating for students that will explain the basic chemistry issues you are asking about, and show you how to do copper plating for a science experiment. Beyond that, the Metal Finishing Guidebook will give you the formulas and operating conditions you seek.

But the thing is, a dull, thin, marginally adherent copper plating, adequate to demonstrate chemical principles like Faraday's Law of Electrolysis, is one thing. Bright, thick, adherent, functional copper plating for a real-world purpose is something else entirely. You will probably not be able to secure results of that type without a proper rectifier, temperature control, solution agitation, filtration, high purity oxygen free copper anodes, and proprietary addition agents.

For "real" copper plating, as opposed to a science experiment, it might be best to send the parts to a plating shop. Good luck.

Ted Mooney, finishing.com
Ted Mooney, P.E.
Striving to live Aloha
finishing.com - Pine Beach, New Jersey
2007



2007

thumbs up sign Many thanks.

I was joking about the "sulphate".
Having read your "Student" section I appreciate why I got the Black coating - yes I tried it today - so next time I will reduce the voltage. Using saturated copper sulphate solution + 12 Volts & much cleaning/polishing of the whitemetal model engine chimney prior to plating gave acceptable results. I only want a light copper coating which can be lightly burnished before lacquering. I can see that this method would be of little use if the item was to experience any appreciable wear. Thank you again for your response.
Regards Chris.

Chris Vaughan [returning]
- London, UK


adv.: Supplier of Copper Anodes, Nickel Anodes, Bismuth Metal, & Other Metal Products for Industry & The Arts
carter banner



(No "dead threads" here! If this page isn't currently on the Hotline your Q, A, or Comment will restore it)

Q, A, or Comment on THIS thread -or- Start a NEW Thread

Disclaimer: It's not possible to fully diagnose a finishing problem or the hazards of an operation via these pages. All information presented is for general reference and does not represent a professional opinion nor the policy of an author's employer. The internet is largely anonymous & unvetted; some names may be fictitious and some recommendations might be harmful.

If you are seeking a product or service related to metal finishing, please check these Directories:

Finishing
Jobshops
Capital
Equipment
Chemicals &
Consumables
Consult'g,
& Software


About/Contact  -  Privacy Policy  -  ©1995-2024 finishing.com, Pine Beach, New Jersey, USA  -  about "affil links"