
Curated with aloha by
Ted Mooney, P.E. RET

The authoritative public forum
for Metal Finishing 1989-2025

-----
Low-temp flux for soldering stainless steel
July 24, 2018
Q. Hello!
I want to include stainless steel parts in some stained glass art I'm designing and will make.
I've seen low-temp fluxes that seem to be mainly a blend of "regular" flux (the sort used for soldering copper with tin-based solder when making stained glass art) plus some hydrochloric acid, a.k.a. "muriatic acid", to etch the steel. -- As a note, yes, I do have some silver-solder paste, and it works great on steel-to-steel sections, but I can't use it with glass because, to make a long story short, I end up ruining the glass.
So, here is my question:
Can I use make a concentrated citric acid
⇦ this on
eBay
or
Amazon [affil links] solution to score just the part I want to solder, then immediately add regular flux, and then use tin or lead+tin solder, and get it to "stick"?
I have citric acid crystals and am familiar with using the stuff, so I figured I'd ask. I also have liquid "muriatic acid" for the pool, but I would really prefer to not fool around with the gallon bottles just to use a few drops.
Also, I realize that the joints will be far weaker than if I silver-soldered them all, and I also realize that any form of soldering or brazing is weaker than welding, but these are just decorative stained-glass items, not anything requiring industrial levels of support strength.
Thank you for any info!
hobbyist/artisan - Richmond, Texas, USA
Q, A, or Comment on THIS thread -or- Start a NEW Thread