The authoritative public forum
  for Metal Finishing since 1989


-----

Historical Colt 1911 nickel plating question

October 22, 2011

Gentlemen,

I found your site and the high level of experience and expertise here is obvious.
Problem is... maybe TOO HIGH a level of expertise.
I want to know if I can ask a question and y'all please try to "dumb down" your answers for someone totally outside your field.

In my later years here, I have started "collecting" some older, historical, Colt 1911 pistols, and am enjoying restoring those of them in need of some love.

One, an older one, was originally finished in "old time" electroplated nickel, which is showing the ravages of time (64 years, from 1947 to 2011).

As I began to think about re-nickel-plating it, something about "hydrogen embrittlement" that I had heard way back came back to my mind.

Can y'all please talk to me about this pistol.
Both frame and slide (and parts) are carbon steel.

I have a million questions buzzing in my head, like:

- as I understand it, the steel first has to be de-plated, then re-plated?
- any issues, better/worse methodology as far as the de-plating goes?
- something I heard about "flash" plating it with copper before the nickel?
- IS HYDROGEN EMBRITTLEMENT AN ISSUE with nickel electroplating this steel/parts of this pistol?
- if so, are there steps to take to minimize the issue ("baking", whatever that is, or however that is done?)
- does the fact that this pistol has already been nickel electroplated ONCE complicate the issue? make the steel more "at risk" for further "damage" from a SECOND electroplating?

And...just any general advice anyone would care to roll out for me would be greatly appreciated.

And.. as "short on theory" please and "long on practical advice" as you can keep your writing, the better for me, because the theory might just go over my head, I'm afraid.

Much obliged for any good advice.

James Russell
Historical Pistol Collector/Restorer - Marble Hill, Georgia

---

Completely disassemble the pistol and take only those parts to be plated to the plating shop. Do not have screws, springs, or internal parts which are not normally visible plated.

A good shop can strip the old plating without damage. They will then polish the parts to remove as much pitting/scratches and other defects as possible, and replate.

Hydrogen embrittlement is only a problem on parts made of high strength steel. If in doubt, have the shop bake all parts after plating, they will know how to do this.

Jeffrey Holmes, CEF
Spartanburg, South Carolina
October 28, 2011