No passwords, No popups, No cost, No AI:
we earn from 'affiliate link' purchases, making the site possible

Home /
T.O.C.
Fun
FAQs
Good
Books
Ref.
Libr.
Adver-
tise
Help
Wanted
Current
Q&A's
Site 🔍
Search
ted_yosem
Sound technical content, curated with aloha by
Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
Pine Beach, NJ
finishing.com -- The Home Page of the Finishing Industry

  The authoritative public forum
  for Metal Finishing since 1989
  mfhotline


  -----

Switching from anodized finish to Iridite




I am an electrical engineer at a small company that doesn't have anyone with knowledge about metal finishing. We are trying to make changes to an aluminum extrusion that is used to build our systems. The extrusion is presently being anodized blue. We are running into grounding problems and need to change the finishing process so at least part of the extrusion is conductive. The shop that we are dealing with is suggesting we switch to a blue Iridite process. I know that anodizing is more durable than Iridite. Is Iridite an acceptable finish for a large cosmetic surface? The other option would be to Iridite, mask, and anodize but this would be much more time consuming.

Thanks

John Monteiro
engineering - Bellingham, Massachusetts
February 24, 2010



Hi, John. Iridite is a Macdermid trade name, and covers a number of different chromate conversion coating processes, so it can be a bit vague to talk about. But traditional chromate conversion coating processes leave hexavalent chromium on the surface, which will probably be unacceptable for any components in the near future.

You will probably want to go to a trivalent chromate or non-chromate process.

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, but chromate conversion coating is no match for anodizing. If aesthetics are important, I think you'll need to go with your "other option".

Regards,

Ted Mooney, finishing.com
Ted Mooney, P.E.
Striving to live Aloha
finishing.com - Pine Beach, New Jersey
February 24, 2010



February 25, 2010

Plan c would be to use external star washers which will break thru the anodizing when tightened.
Plan d would be to remove the anodizing in the required spot with something like a Dremel this on eBay or Amazon [affil links] tool with a stone, or burr or wheel.
If none of this will work, then you are at plan b.

James Watts
- Navarre, Florida




(No "dead threads" here! If this page isn't currently on the Hotline your Q, A, or Comment will restore it)

Q, A, or Comment on THIS thread -or- Start a NEW Thread

Disclaimer: It's not possible to fully diagnose a finishing problem or the hazards of an operation via these pages. All information presented is for general reference and does not represent a professional opinion nor the policy of an author's employer. The internet is largely anonymous & unvetted; some names may be fictitious and some recommendations might be harmful.

If you are seeking a product or service related to metal finishing, please check these Directories:

Finishing
Jobshops
Capital
Equipment
Chemicals &
Consumables
Consult'g,
& Software


About/Contact  -  Privacy Policy  -  ©1995-2024 finishing.com, Pine Beach, New Jersey, USA  -  about "affil links"