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Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
Pine Beach, NJ
The authoritative public forum
for Metal Finishing since 1989
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1973 MUSTANG MACH 1 RENOVATION
2004
Dear metal finishing experts,
I have recently acquired a 1973 Mach 1 Mustang. My hopes are to restore this classic muscle to mint condition once again, with your help. I could really use your advice on which route to take for restoring the frame and body. I currently have the car stripped down to the body and for the most part the frame is intact meaning little rust. The major rust areas are limited to the floor and engine bay. There are three areas where the rust has over taken: the isolator mounts, floor pans, and some areas on the front frame of the car. I was thinking of having the frame dipped in acid and then replace the metal areas where the rust had over taken.
Does this sound like a good plan? Are there other options? Also, what would be a ball park estimate for having the frame hauled off and dipped? My ranking is that of novice and welcome any comments that could possibly save me either in dollar signs or simply wasted effort for just not knowing better. Very truly grateful!
ps.... I would be happy to post progress photos of this car on this site once under way!
Darren GardnerHobbyist - Chicago, Illinois, USA
You have quite a chore in front of you, I have owned a '73 Mach I since I was 16 (got it from my step mother, the original owner). Chances are once you strip it you are going to find a lot of body rust, especially on the rear quarter panels... I know I did. What I would suggest is likely the most excessive way possible to begin, but then without a good frame/body, you can't really restore the car.
I personally like media blasting (a bit more expensive than acid dips, but better for the metal). I would suggest a walnut shell/glass bead mix (the walnut shell strips paint but not rust, the glass bead will take off the rust, make sure they mix it no heavier than 10-1 walnut to glass).
Before doing that you will need to STRIP THE CAR. Take EVERYTHING off, rip out the interior, do it all. Then take it to be media blasted... and have the put a sealer on it (if you don't add the sealer, rust will pop up in a few hours, as the metal is naked). From there you are likely going to need to manufacturer quite a lot of body (the ass end doesn't separate, your going to have work on that in place, and good luck with the frame, it is a pain).
Also a word of warning, finding any pieces for this year/model is going to be near impossible (I've gone through Mexico, Canada, and even a south African supplier to get pieces), most of it is going to have to custom fabricated. On that note, since you have to make almost everything as you go, I would suggest using modern materials to replace the older ones, as it is the look you are trying to keep, not the weak links.
On the upside the Engine and drive train were all options for the other Mustangs of '73 so you can get parts for them (or even replacements if you want).
Please feel free to contact me, as I'm STILL restoring mine, and wouldn't mind correspondence as you find/learn things, and I can pass on what I know.
Mike Mendolia- Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
2004
2004
Congratulations on your find. It looks to be in pretty good shape. As was previously said, take the car apart and locate and repair any rust you find. Floor plans are a given and will have to be replaced. The rear fenders are prone to rust as well.
We started our restoration over a year ago with a car that had some front clip damage, a lot of Bondo ⇦ this on eBay or Amazon [affil links] on the left rear fender, and completely rusted out floor pans. We ended up replacing the left rear fender, floor pans, front clip, radiator support, trunk supports, and ton of small parts you don't think of right away that end up costing a fortune. Seals, seals, seals.. After doing all the body work, you'll come to realize that you will need a butt load of seals. That alone can cost some bucks.
We have pretty much completed the restoration of our 73 Mach 1. We still have some stripes to put on and some miscellaneous parts here and there, but it is for the most part done.
As far as parts are concerned, the reproduction market is really starting to pick up when it comes to 71 - 73 Mustangs. Parts that weren't available before are popping up in catalogs left and right. Most body parts are available and are your best bet if you have a lot of rust.
Frederick Steward- San Antonio, Texas
Well I would definitely tackle the floor pans first and like I should of done and then head right for the seals. Good luck on finding motor mounts.
Ian Kells- Shelton, Connecticut
2005
I have a 65 Mustang in need of complete restoration. I started stripping it down to nothing and I need to replace my floor pans as well as a lot of other parts that are completely rusted. I have been able to get most of my parts from a local warehouse in Connecticut, Mustangs Unlimited.
Shaun Thompson- North Haven, Connecticut
2005
I just came home with a 73 mach 1 from eBay ...the seller wasn't completely honest with me and the rear quarters will have to be replaced....any ideas?
Tsgt Ricky Martin- Memphis, Tennessee
2006
Its Ricky again, I want to restore my car can anyone give me advice on taking the car apart? I read above I don't completely understand about the rear end....will the body come completely off of the frame? thanks
Tsgt Ricky Matin- Memphis, Tennessee
2006
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Ed. note: this site is primarily about metal finishing. Sorry, but as the posting veers further into how classic cars are assembled, and further from metal finishing, the likelihood of finding help at this site declines. Sorry. But we do know a fair amount about metal finishing :-)
The rear quarters and trunk supports do not come off the frame. Before you do anything, check the inner rockers to make sure they are not rotted, so that you have something to weld the new floor pans to. Also look at the cowl area. If this is heavily rusted find another chassis! Replacing structural items is difficult if not impossible for most of us. If you don't get everything EXACTLY right nothing will line up during reassembly. Convertibles really suck.
Jim Fuller- Akron, Ohio
2006
These 71-73 are my favorite Mustangs. They have the best ride/handling the most horsepower options.I own two 1973,s one is A basic frame N.C 351w 2b fmx air d-lux int mach 1 package fold down rear seat full console glow blue and silver. The other one is from Ohio and I bought it from Tex this one is a Q code w air D-lux int lime green white int this car has only 48000 mi on it. I bought this one frame eBay . First time car purchase.The seller was as honest as he could be about the condition of the car.Had I known. It had extensive rust to the cowl pane by the heater box right side. If you have this problem ? You got a problem. Because you can not buy these parts. You will have to fabricate.Ohio mustang sells some parts frame 1970 mustang,s that you can utilize fore the 1971-1973,s as fore the floors you can use the seat risers frame 1970 mustang,s.I can't wait for full Quarter panels. The after market one,s are like putting sox,s on a rooster. The best way to put them on is. Cut the edge off @ door opening and the rear edge line up and weld.Fore you that don't have access to A welder.they sell pane epoxy it work,s excellent better than welding . I rather epoxy the Quarter,s and rear panels on . there is no warpage less grinding exc.*WARNING* don't epoxy any other parts.This is for panels ONLY. ..........Good Luck to All ....Rondo Bondo...
Rondo Bondo/ HaneyRondo's - Bourbonnais, Illinois
2007
August 13, 2008
I am presently going through my 1973 Mustang for the second time. when I was 17, the rad support failed and ruptured my rad. I went to Ford and ordered a new rad support and proceeded to bronze it in place (it was all that I had at 17!). I have now purchased all the correct parts and a MIG welder and would like to put it all back together, but require the correct measurements. I need to know how far the rad support is supposed to be from the firewall. Sheet metal can give or take about 3/4 of an inch and still fit together and weld and bolt in place. When I took it apart, I used the top attaching brackets for the fenders. I will require measurements for the top and bottom as the car might not be sitting flat. Thanks to anyone who can help out.
Thanks.
Ross
- Ottawa, Canada
I recently purchased my Mach I from Florida and it has only one area of rust on the front Cross member it needs to be replaced. I have had no luck scouring the internet for the part. Any advice on where I can find a front cross member? Do they even make an aftermarket replacement yet? Any advice I welcomed.
Mach Blue
- Villa Park, Illinois
November 20, 2010
I have a 73 Mach 1 that I'm working on, I know a salvage yard here in S.C. that has about ten 1970-1973 mustangs; that's where I get my parts. Vics Classics , Chesnee S.C.
I don't think he has a web site.
- Chesnee, South Carolina
January 10, 2011
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