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Stainless steel jewelry questions

2004

Hello,

I am looking for some information about the properties of stainless steel required to make ss jewelry. Currently I am a steel (rg45) jewelry maker and wish to expand my line to stainless either (304L or 316L). The current process I use for the steel rod is weld, anneal, wire buff, bend and then I dip in a jewelry grade lacquer.

For stainless steel (I would be using rod of 1/16 and 3/32). I assume the process would be clean, anneal (to make it softer to bend), TIG weld, buff, passivate, bend. A couple of questions and request for recommendations here:

I plan on using scotchbright for the cleaning. Any other cheap, small studio recommendations?

At what temperature and how long does the ss anneal in order to make it easier to bend into jewelry forms (rod that wraps around the wrist easily)? Also, what type of quenching should be involved (water, air-cooled?)

I plan on annealing the pieces in a jewelry kiln. The annealing and welding leaves a dark scaling on the metal and buffing it with a non-iron polish would bring back its shiny properties. Any recommendations? I was thinking of glass bead blasting or fabric wheel coated with something. Will I lose any of the anti-corrosive properties by annealing it? I am planning on tumbling some of the ss in a ceramic medium so does stripping the top layer affect the anti-corrosiveness? I do plan on passifying the steel after it has been annealed, welded and buffed.

My other question surrounds the nickel content of the ss. My jewelry will not be implanted but just laid upon the skin (bracelets and pendants). I understand that 316L has more nickel content which means more reaction to those sensitive to nickel which is why I was planning on using the 304L. Is 304L not as "clean" as 316L? Is one more softer than the other? Do all rods come pre-annealed? I know there are a lot of questions here and I do plan on alot of "trial and error" practice but thought I would map out and ask for a jumpstart anyhow. Any thoughts would be great.

Thanks,

Aaron Edmonston
steel jewelry artist - San Francisco, California, USA