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ted_yosem
Sound technical content, curated with aloha by
Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
Pine Beach, NJ
finishing.com -- The Home Page of the Finishing Industry

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How do I harden cold rolled steel?




Q. I HAVE MADE SOME PINS FOR A BACKHOE THAT I AM RESTORING. THEY ARE MADE OUT OF COLD ROLLED STEEL. HOW CAN I HARDEN THEM?

Janie M [surname deleted for privacy by Editor]
heating & cooling contractor & building contractor - Horton, Alabama
2003


A. It depends on what type of steel it is. Cold rolled just refers to how it was worked at the mill, not what alloy it is. Some cold rolled steels are hardenable, others are not. If it is hardenable (high enough carbon content) heat it to about 1500 degrees (bright red color ... heat until a magnet won't stick to it and then heat just a tad hotter) and dip it in either oil or water (water results in harder steel but more prone to cracking, oil may be the better choice).

If its a high carbon stainless they usually need to be heated to 2000 (very bright red/orange color)and cooled in fast moving air or oil these are just very rough guidelines since I don't have a clue what type of steel you have. Good luck.

Jason Aube
- Flint, Michigan
2003



sidebar notes







sidebar notes

Do you plan on putting this equipment back in service? Are these pins safety critical items? If so, think carefully about what you're doing.

Steve Bizub
- St Louis, Missouri
2003


Please, have a heat treating shop handle this for you. After the hardening process described above, the part must be tempered properly to maximize the effect of the hardening. Depending on the alloy used to make the pin, any reputable shop can harden the part to your specifications, or application. If you only harden and do not temper the piece, you greatly increase the risk of stress fracture. The small amount a shop would charge is well worth the investment.

Michael Schneider
- Greer, South Carolina
2004



Many heat treat shops wouldn't take this job unless you sign off on ANY potential liability. Some won't do it, period.

In my opinion, it would be better to buy OEM parts if you can still get them. Sometimes its good to be resourceful, but not in this instance, especially if its a safety critical part. Here's just a few of the problems I see with going "home made":

-You don't know the part specifications, so you don't know what type of heat treat is required. Heat treat is a broad term, just like plating. Does heat treat mean neutral harden and temper? Case harden and temper? Neutral harden, temper, selective induction harden and temper? Etc, etc? Unless you've got a part drawing or a list of specifications, you don't really know.
-If you picked the wrong alloy to make the pins, it won't harden, or it might be too hard after temper. Again, without a part drawing or list of specifications, you don't really know what steel to use.
-There could be post heat treat operations, such as shot peen, straightening, surface coating, or magnaflux testing required.

And is this part supposed to be machined from bar stock, or is it supposed to be cold formed or hot formed to minimize the potential for fatigue failure?

Steve Bizub
- St Louis, Missouri
2004



My apologies, my view was too narrow. I saw the words "cold rolled steel, how to, harden" and didn't address the safety issue. Those gentlemen are right, have a professional do it, or better yet if possible get an OEM part.

This thread is a month old but for future reference, the method I described will hopefully attain a full hardness (if it's a hardenable steel) and may need to be tempered to a lower hardness to make it less prone to cracking, depending on the application. and as always, if its a critical part have a professional do it for you.

Jason Aube
- Flint, Michigan
2004



A. If it is a shaft or a pin you're looking for, you could go to a local machine shop and buy it. For farm equipment use I would suggest using a material called C1045. It is a great material for wear and stress loads!

Robert Poirier
- Saint John, NB, Canada
2004


A. If you need a pin of high surface hardness for wear resistance and a softer very tough core try 8620 steel. Machine your pin then take it to a heat treater and have him carburized .030" deep and harden to R/C 60 surface hardness. The core should come up to R/C 35 or so. I have made many replacement parts for punch presses and other machines as well as pins and bushings for heavy equipment.

Wayne F Johnson
- Palmdale, California, USA
2004


A. If you want to do it properly you will need to get the parts case hardened. Passing it though a induction coil is how it normally is done. Takes a few seconds but you need the equipment. If you harden it straight though it will crack due to brittleness with any severe use.

Ronald Zeeman
Coil Coating - Brampton, ON, Canada
2004

A. You are talking about hardening a pivot pin for a backhoe.
1 if you have the right size cold roll you don't really need too.
2 the "farm boy way" we used to do it was heat the pin up evenly cherry red hot then quick cool it in oil (or water) then heat it up again and let it cool very slowly.

RICK BROWN
farmer - Crownsville, Maryland
January 15, 2011


opinion!  Why do you guys have such a problem just answering his question? Safety is most definitely a huge concern but he asked how to harden the steel not get a safety class. I am sure he is very aware of the safety issues. If you just do not know the answer such as me, simply read the post and continue on but do not start an OSHA class. Main point of the question was how can I harden the pins.

Andy Spence
- Angier, North Carolina USA
April 11, 2017


thumbs up sign Hi Andy. Janie's question was answered immediately by Jason, and later received 4 more technical replies.

The internet is a giant one room schoolhouse and even if you're "sure he is very aware of the safety issues" (which I'm not, because he's a heating & cooling contractor and he didn't realize that no one can propose a hardening plan without knowing what kind of steel it is), hundreds of other people have now read this dialog and some probably used the technical heat treating advice while others decided that buying OEM replacement pins was a better plan than making their own after reading those safety concerns and considering their own knowledge base which may differ from yours and Janie's. It's all good.

Regards,

ted_yosem
Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
Striving to live Aloha
finishing.com - Pine Beach, New Jersey
April 2017



August 25, 2017

thumbs up sign Andy,

I guess some people feel obligated to provide information that will help lower the potential of someone dying.

Criticizing someone's questionable decision making isn't a bad thing... If someone is doing something boneheaded that could lead to someone else's injury then they should be called out on it quickly, and then be shown the right way to do it.

I saw nothing in this thread that appeared to be out of line.

chase thomas
- Trion, Georgia




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