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ted_yosem
Sound technical content, curated with aloha by
Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
Pine Beach, NJ
finishing.com -- The Home Page of the Finishing Industry

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Question regarding rust removal on stainless steel coffee table



Q. Dear Finishing Expert,

I am writing with regard to a stainless steel coffee table base that is bringing me to the point of tears. I LOVE this table. The stainless steel base and glass top table was given to me by a relative after being stored for a year, unfortunately, in a damp cellar. As a result, surface rust and I believe internal rust has come out in the form of pervasive, unsightly rusty "blooms" that are covering the entire stainless steel base. I have tried cleaning the base with a plethora of metal cleaners and alas only a wee bit of the superficial rust has come off. I fact, the legs look worse than before I touched it because the blooms are now more pronounced looking. So, what are my options at this point? Can I get a professional to paint over it with a new, shiny stainless steel veneer? Can you refinish stainless steel? IS it costly? Does this service exist? Or is their a cleaner that will get the "inside out" rust off? I would truly appreciate any professional suggestions because I just love this table.

Many thanks.

Best,

Kirsten Spielmann
- Boulder, Colorado, USA
2003


A. Never use steel wool on a stainless item as it will cause it to rust, Kirsten. Your table may possibly be D-I-Y salvageable with a citric acid this on eBay or Amazon [affil links] formulation. If not, and with some hunting, a shop can be found that can "passivate" the stainless steel for you so it will not rust.

Ted Mooney, finishing.com
Ted Mooney, P.E.
Striving to live Aloha
finishing.com - Pine Beach, New Jersey
2003


A. Are you positive that the material is stainless steel? The descriptions internal rust and blooms make me suspect chrome-plated steel. Is any of the shiny finish turning blue-green at edges (and peeling off)? You can also try a magnet test: If non-magnetic or weakly magnetic, then it is (almost certainly) stainless steel. Ordinary steel is strongly magnetic, but so are some of the less costly stainless steels. If stainless, follow Ted's advice. For a brighter shine, get it electropolished (more $). If chrome-plated, the best option is professional replating ($$). You could try a chrome polish from an automotive store (low $), but I suspect the finish is too far gone. Good luck, Rechrome paints: you must entirely remove the rust (or it will resurface), and the appearance is not the same as genuine chrome or polished stainless steel. Maybe test on something else. If you end up going to a metal finisher, you will be charged for paint removal.

Ken Vlach [deceased]
- Goleta, California

contributor of the year Finishing.com honored Ken for his countless carefully researched responses. He passed away May 14, 2015.
Rest in peace, Ken. Thank you for your hard work which the finishing world, and we at finishing.com, continue to benefit from.

2003


A. Hi Kirsten !

First off, I am not a finishing expert ... but Ted is! and if you spent some time scanning on the finishing.com, you'd often see recommendations on how to 'de-rust' stainless.

A local stainless mfgr of kitchen equipment and fume hoods uses an approach that might interest you...

They use 3-M's SCOTCHBRITE pads for their brushed finishes. A brown pad for the coarse finish and a final red one for the fine finish. But they always rub in the SAME direction.

If you really want to go to town, then get a buffing wheel and the appropriate 'rouge' or abrasive. Helluva dirty job and sooner or later you might ruin the finish anyhow.

May I suggest you search in the yellow pages for a sheet metal fabricator that deals with stainless... they should have those pads or go direct to 3-M as I doubt that you'd find them in the stores.

freeman newton portrait
Freeman Newton [deceased]
(It is our sad duty to advise that Freeman passed away
April 21, 2012. R.I.P. old friend).

2003


A. Thanks Freeman ... but I think Ken was more awake than you and I. His insight that the table is probably nickel-chrome plated steel rather than stainless steel is probably correct. If his suspicion is right, and if chrome polish followed by waxing doesn't make it passable, replating is the only option ... and unfortunately it may be too expensive for Kirsten.

Regards,

Ted Mooney, finishing.com
Ted Mooney, P.E.
Striving to live Aloha
finishing.com - Pine Beach, New Jersey




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