Sound technical content, curated with aloha by
Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
Pine Beach, NJ
The authoritative public forum
for Metal Finishing since 1989
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Heat coloring metal
Q. I was at a art and craft show and saw some plow disk that were cut into western scene and they were in beautiful rainbow colors.The artist said they were done by heat. I am a retired welder and do metal artwork and I want to color my artwork. How do I do this?
J.D.Clay- Shamrock, Texas
2002
A. Grab a copy of Machinery's Handbook
. You can color yellows to browns in your home oven. You might need a hobbyist ceramic kiln for higher temperatures and richer colors.
degrees color of steel
- 430 very pale yellow
- 440 light yellow
- 450 pale straw yellow
- 460 straw yellow
- 470 deep straw yellow
- 480 dark yellow
- 490 yellow brown
- 500 brown yellow
- 510 spotted brown
- 520 brown purple
- 530 light purple
- 540 full purple
- 550 dark purple
- 560 full blue
- 570 dark blue
- 640 light blue
- 440 light yellow
Notice the big gap between dark blue and Light blue. Temperature control is absolutely key to this endeavor. You need a decent pyrometer (Analog not digital!) Digitals skip around too much and low batteries can really mess you up.
Jason [surname deleted for privacy by Editor]- Sharpsville, Indiana, USA
Q. Hello everyone. I am a tattoo artist/ tattoo machine builder out of Kansas. I have been experimenting with heat coloring with MAPP gas to the low carbon steel. I can get some really cool colors from brown to light blue in random patterns by doing it this way. The problem is that a friend of mine is using the same process on his machines and I don't want to copy him too terribly much. Anyone have some good tips on how to get some different patterns or colors (red, green, etc.)? Any process methods or heads-up on books that I should read would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Dan
Dan Pillowbody ink and steel - Newton, Kansas, USA
2007
Q. Hello, I am a metal art/hobbyist and am using cold rolled steel for my projects.
I use 40 - 60 grit sanding wheels 4.5" - 7" to grind the surface. I then use my acetylene torch to heat and color the metal.
I am wondering why sometimes I get the DEEP colors from yellow to dark blue, but sometimes the colors come out very DULL -- there almost seems to be a sheen over the colors?
I've tried different sanding wheel manufacturers, different metal stock manufacturers, etc., but with every project I never know if it will come out DEEP colors or DULL muted colors. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Kim
- Scottsdale Arizona USA
February 1, 2014
A. Try next download free booklet:
attachments.wetpaintserv.us/ZLSnLKosv0l3CnE9hGDi7w488720
-- there you can find small chapter on heat tinting of steel, stainless steel, titanium and copper/copper alloys. Hope it helps and good luck!
- Cerovski vrh Croatia
February 9, 2014
Ed. note Jan 2017: Although wetpaintserv.us was a legitimate site when Goran posted this, it is currently a malware site. DON'T GO THERE!! Goran has been kind enough to upload his booklet to https://www.finishing.com/library/budija/budija.pdf.
Thank you, I will give that a try.....
- Scottsdale Arizona USA
February 10, 2014
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