Finishing Naval Cannons

"Round Shot and Rammers: An Introduction to Muzzle-Loading Land Artillery in the United States"
by Harold L. Peterson

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A. To what scale are you building these cannon? Is the black paint not lasting long enough, or are you trying to find a faster way to blacken the parts? How are you blackening the cannon, presumably a cast iron? I had some limited success plating zinc plated screws with a copper solution (topic 64), then forming an antique brass by heating the part. The finish is very close to an aged cast iron cooking pot, but believe me, this is not an easy way, if you don't like electroplating for electroplating.

A. Look around all the recent and past letters posted to the hobbyist section. There have been lots of ideas presented, and a room-temperature black may be available from a vendor.

Ed. note: You can get brass darkening solution ⇦this on eBay or Amazon [affil links] or liver of sulfur ⇦this on eBay or Amazon [affil links] by mail order.

A. I have built several Black powder cannons. The largest is 3.5 inch bore. It fires an aluminum projectile that weighs 4 lbs. The typical powder charge is 1000 grains of 2ff Black powder. The charge is touched off by 4 70 caliber musket caps. The caps are struck by a spring loaded plunger inside the Castibule.

This system is safe and allows the firer to be well back from the gun. This piece is a 2/3 scale 1806 British Naval Deck gun. Its Weight is about 400 pounds. I used a copper flash over all steel parts that is then blackened. I had it done and a local plating shop in Kansas City. I'm not sure what it's called but I know that the base is copper. It has been setting in my living room since 1994 without any rusting so I'm sure this is a good way to go.

A. You can get the cannon powder coated in almost any color or you can use a marine epoxy. The epoxy will last forever and comes in many colors and shades.

 I have that dilemma myself. I have a 1/4 scale model of a British 24 pounder naval deck gun in a 1.69" bore (golf ball bore). It shoots golf balls or lead balls. I ordered this cannon unfinished, both the barrel & naval carriage are unfinished. I added a brass percussion firing unit so I can pull a lanyard to fire it using hotter musket caps.

I plan to electroplate both the barrel & the carriage metal parts. I found that for this application, the best protection is a nickel/chrome plating. I'll start with 2 coats of nickel electroplate followed by 2 coats of chrome electroplate. I found that this offers the best corrosion protection plus the chrome outer coating keeps the nickel from tarnishing. I'm working on the metal polishing for now to prep for plating.

I love this caliber because I can shoot golf balls as well as lead for an unusual game of golf, tee off for the next county.

A. Might I suggest that you get some "Stove Black" ⇦this on eBay or Amazon [affil links] . This is a very durable flat black paint that wears well and heat will not effect it. If your cannon sits outside you may have to do a touch up every 3 or 4 years.

A. I may be going about this all wrong but this was my solution and its worked very well for my guns. I have two 55" 2/3 scale ordinance rifles that launch 2 1/4" juice cans filled with concrete at approx. 800 mph @ 1700 yards from my sea wall. These are mounted in naval trundles and are outside every day of the year. They are exposed to tropical sun in the Philippines at our resort..,in the storm season the get some sea-spray as well as rain..,then Hot and humid weather. I simply use Brush on "Rust oleum" satin to be exact. We have not had to repaint for several years. The cast iron rifle as well as the 10" X 3" wheels and all other steel hardware seems to be fine and I am sure Rust oleum can't hurt my metals.

A. I never knew any sort of kit existed for any naval cannon. I want one!
But let me post my response to the finishing 'issue' it's simple...powder coating! for any metal or substance that can stand the 400 °F for 20 minutes curing cycle, powder coat is probably the toughest finish out there. Surface prep is paramount, just like anything else

A. My idea is to use brazing rod and braze the entire outer surface of the steel cannon barrel I'm making to create a brass finish.
I may also use a plating method I have seen... you can get kits for it.

A. I use gun blueing, available from any gun shop.
I have used it on copper wire for the chains on the deadeyes on my model 1690 English Frigate.
You could borrow some from a mate of yours that has guns and try it first, although it is not an expensive product.

A. For the smaller parts like nuts and such I heat till they get hot to the touch then put on a coat of linseed oil it will blacken the Iron. For an iron barrel I use a very good flat black paint lightly sprayed on till I have about five coats. After about 4 weeks I lightly rub by hand a thin coat of linseed oil on the barrel. The only part I need to touch up every year is the muzzle since the burning powder will cause the paint to be removed in parts. On spraying the barrel in light coats its best to let it dry for 2 days between coats. Since mine is a rev war cannon I use quills to touch it off they save a little on the paint by the touch hole. The key is good up keep of the cannon barrel and tools.

A. There are a plethora of quality cannon barrels on-line. I assume you have a computer. Simply enter black powder cannon barrel and look them up!
Hern iron works are a good entry level. Only state and local laws would restrict you.
Same look up for powder and fuse. Use only cannon grade, or #1 for blank charges. Volume of powder depends on the cannon size, bore etc. Howitzer, full size, blank load, 3-4 oz, volumetric.
Powder Valley Inc. has a good price now.
It ain't cheap.