No passwords, No popups, No AI, No cost:
we earn from your affiliate purchases

Home /
T.O.C.
Fun
FAQs
Good
Books
Ref.
Libr.
Adver-
tise
Help
Wanted
Current
Q&A's
Site 🔍
Search
ted_yosem
Sound technical content, curated with aloha by
Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
Pine Beach, NJ
finishing.com -- The Home Page of the Finishing Industry


  pub
  The authoritative public forum
  for Metal Finishing since 1989

-----

Passivation and Laser Cutting/Stamping of Stainless Steel




We have a requirement to get some small stainless parts fabricated and passivated from a 300 series stainless steel. They are 0.012" thick and about 6" x 1".
I know that standard theory tells me to passivate last but since these are virtually sacrificial plates to protect the underlying structure I am not too worried about the passivation as much of it will get damaged in service. However it has to be done as we only have limited freedom in the design. The important question is would these pass the copper sulphate this on eBay or Amazon [affil links] test from AMS2700 after being laser cut or stamped from a sheet if it were passivated first.
We are just trying to save on racking time and cost.
Thanks for any help.

Ciaron Murphy
Chemist - South Wales, UK
October 14, 2009


The answer is very simple, since stamping after passivation leaves you with not passivated surfaces, meaning free iron, your piece will probably not pass the copper sulphate test, and you will see a nice copper edge on your piece.

Bo Kønig
- Odense Denmark
October 15, 2009



Oftentimes 300 series parts will pass copper sulphate even prior to passivation unless there is some iron surface contamination happening during the manufacturing process. Stamping is the kind of thing that can cause this contamination, but neither is it a certainty. The heat affected zone from laser cutting will be more susceptible than the rest of the part until and unless it is passivated, but it depends on the grade and the laser settings as to just how bad that will be, i.e. if it might still pass copper sulphate.

I think you can't really know without doing some sample pieces and actually performing the copper sulphate test.

I should say that I can't endorse the sort of "cheating" you are thinking of doing, but you did already admit to knowing better. Unless these pieces are in service in a harsh corrosive environment it may not really matter anyway.

ray kremer
Ray Kremer
Stellar Solutions, Inc.
supporting advertiser
McHenry, Illinois
stellar solutions banner
October 23, 2009




(No "dead threads" here! If this page isn't currently on the Hotline your Q, A, or Comment will restore it)

Q, A, or Comment on THIS thread -or- Start a NEW Thread

Disclaimer: It's not possible to fully diagnose a finishing problem or the hazards of an operation via these pages. All information presented is for general reference and does not represent a professional opinion nor the policy of an author's employer. The internet is largely anonymous & unvetted; some names may be fictitious and some recommendations might be harmful.

If you are seeking a product or service related to metal finishing, please check these Directories:

Finishing
Jobshops
Capital
Equipment
Chemicals &
Consumables
Consult'g,
& Software


About/Contact  -  Privacy Policy  -  ©1995-2024 finishing.com, Pine Beach, New Jersey, USA  -  about "affil links"